A change at a fashion house can leave you wondering which version of its style you actually like. For your own wardrobe, the more useful question is what stays consistent.
In its October 9 report, Harper’s BAZAAR said Anthony Vaccarello was leaving Saint Laurent after a decade as creative director. The article described a designer who repeatedly returned to the house’s archive and made its proportions unmistakable.
The signature was in the shape
Vaccarello succeeded Hedi Slimane in 2016. Drawing on Yves Saint Laurent’s tailoring and the Le Smoking tuxedo, he developed a recognisable silhouette: broad shoulders, narrow trousers or pencil skirts, statement jewellery and pointed heels.
The collections changed, but that outline gave them a throughline. His Fall 2026 show marked Le Smoking’s 60th anniversary with trouser suits alongside silicone-coated lace. His final Spring 2027 collection was largely gold, with black organza gowns referencing the house’s 1991 Rive Gauche collection.
The lesson for an ordinary wardrobe is consistency. You can borrow that method with clothes you already own.
Give your wardrobe a throughline
Start with three small decisions:
- Find your repeated shapes. Look at the outfits you wear most. Is it a broad jacket over a slim base, a loose shirt with straight trousers, or something else?
- Choose one focal detail. A strong shoulder, a piece of jewellery or a favourite shoe can give an outfit direction.
- Treat the next collection as information. Decide which ideas suit the wardrobe you already have before adding another trend.
A few repeatable choices can give your wardrobe a clearer direction. Start with what you already reach for, and build from there.
At the time of the October 9 report, Kering had not named Vaccarello’s successor, and he had not announced his next role. That leaves the next chapter open. The style he established is already available to study.
What is the shape or detail you keep coming back to in your own wardrobe?
Image source: Harper’s BAZAAR.
